The pure zari patterns and motifs on a Kanjivaram saree are nostalgic yet timeless. When reaching out for them from our mother’s wardrobe, we never cease to admire the classic designs and patterns that are woven on the lusturous fabric. One of the timeless designs that is woven in Kanchipuram silk sarees and still in trend is the checks or ‘kattam’ as we call it in Tamil. The kattams woven in a Kanchi silk saree vary in size and the way in which they are woven brings out the beauty of the sarees. In a previous blog, we discussed some of the common Kanchi silk saree motifs and the stories behind each of them. In this blog, we are focusing on a classic and timeless motif – kattam.
Kattam – a timeless pattern on checked Kanjivaram silk sarees
Representing an enclosed sacred space, kattam sarees or checked Kanchipuram silk sarees are a favourite among saree connoisseurs. It is the first pattern that comes to mind when one thinks of traditional designs that defined a generation of Kanjivaram sarees. The design reflects the artistry and deftness of the weaver through the warp and weft interplay.
Checked Kanchipuram silk sarees or kattam sarees are an integral part of the heritage of Tamil Nadu; it signifies the ‘Padi Kolam’ drawn everyday by women in South India in front of their households. It also carries a legacy that is closer home – the kattam is a pattern that was pioneered and popularized in Madras, and ‘Madras checks’ earns its special place in textile history.
At The S Studio, we feature a collection of checked Kanchipuram silk sarees that are testament to the grandeur of the fabric in a variety of designs and colour palettes.
Muthu kattam (Pearl checks): an elegance of texture and contrast
A muthu kattam is a checks design where the checks are not formed by straight lines but tiny pearl like squares of zari woven in horizontal and vertical lines to form checks. The tiny white squares of the Muthu kattam resemble white pearls (or muthu, in tamil). Muthu kattam goes a step beyond other checked Kanchipuram silks saree designs which are woven for aesthetic appeal; it provides a texture difference which adds to the richness of the Kanjivaram silk. The kattam is in usually woven with pure zari or silk thread which contrasts beautifully with the deep hues of the lustrous fabric. Since pattern commands respect and artistic attention, it makes the weave a wearable piece of art.
Did you know? Traditionally, Muthu kattam symbolizes the balanced, interconnected harmony of a married couple, where every single pearl relies on the next to complete the circuit.
Kasa-kasa kattam (Poppy seed checks): the elegance of intricately woven checks
The Kasa-Kasa kattam resembles tiny poppy seeds, referred to as kasa-kasa in Tamil. The fine detailing reflects the artisan’s skill and care with which they weave the design. Unlike other Kanjivaram deisgns which demand a lot of attention because of their intricate detailing, this commands elegance and grace because of its simplicity. The unassuming and regal beauty of the precise and delicate checks is discerned only when this saree is draped. Among the checked Kanchipuram silk sarees, the kasa-kasa kattam is appreciated for its minimal and elegant drape, which makes it the perfect saree for office wear. It can be paired with statement earrings for a festive look or minimal jewellery for a formal event.
Oosi kattam (Needle checks): Delicately woven checks that are treasured
Oosi kattam saree which translates to needle checks in English, is one of the most traditional designs to be woven on a checked Kanchipuram silk saree. The handwoven squares are finely and so closely woven in zari which resemble a vairaoosi Kanchi silk saree in their richness. The Oosi kattam pattern adds a touch of opulence to the fabric with its intricate weaving, making it one of the classic Kanjivaram saree designs loved by women of all ages.
Did you know? Weaving a checked Kanchipuram silk saree requires monumental mental and physical synchronization. The weaver often utilizes a demanding multi-shuttle technique to lock the color blocks cleanly without loose floating threads on the reverse.
Paimadi kattam: A repertoire of craft and checks
An ode to the craft traditions of Tamil Nadu, the Paimadi kattam or payadi kattam was inspired by basket weaving communities in the state. This checked Kanchipuram silk saree features a criss-cross tabby weave in each kattam, containing the legacy of both crafting and weaving communities in a few yards of pure exquisite silk. To make the checks pop, the paimadi kattam sarees are usually featured in deep hues and tones such as maroon, magenta, purple, and violet. The symmetry of the pattern and the interplay of the two colours creates an elegant look, making this saree an ideal choice for festivals or wedding guest looks.
Paalum Pazhamum kattam: the interplay of colours and checks
Very much like the sweet taste of milk and fruit complementing each other, the Paalum Pazhamum kattam sarees feature contrasting colours that interplay and complement each other, reflecting the artisan’s weaving skill. This versatile checked pattern was popularized by the movie ‘Paalum Pazhamum’ which released in 1961.
A Paalum Pazhamum weave is a combination of four, six or more different coloured silk threads in both the warp and weft giving the saree an interplay of colours which looks very elegant as well as striking. The checked Kanchipuram silk saree comes in a range of colour palettes – red, yellow, and green being the classic combinations.
At The S Studio, we have Paalum Pazhamum kattam sarees in pastel colour palettes as well as in borderless designs with buttas, suitable for festive evenings or other wedding occasions. People reach out for this stunning and timeless weave when they crave a familiar nostalgic pattern that is sure to grace any occasion.
Did you know? A single miscounted thread in either direction will break the geometric symmetry of a checked Kanchipuram silk saree, meaning these patterns have zero margin for error compared to solid-body drapes
Conclusion
The kattam goes beyond being a geometrical and repetitive pattern; it is a cultural archive of timeless tradition and intricate weaving techniques. Checked Kanchipuram silk sarees are suitable for any cultural and festive celebrations as they capture beauty and elegance of pure Kanchipuram silk. At The S Studio, we feature classic as well as contemporary kattam designs on Kanjivaram silk sarees. Visit our store in Chennai or shop our Kanchipuram silk sarees online.
